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Old October 12th, 2016, 06:34:50 PM   #1
Puck It
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Default Bowen Super Skrull repair

Bowen Super Skrull repair
Super Skrull repair

Hey guys. So, I recently got the Super Skrull FS. Unfortunately, the flame hand snapped off during shipment. I'm debating on whether I should try drilling it and inserting a rod or just gluing it. The hand seems to be all clear resin. I'm not positive, but it also looks like the arm and hand aren't one piece. The hand looks to have a peg that was inserted into the arm and glued. I bring that up because I'm not sure I have a whole lot of room to drill. Anyway, I'm wondering if drilling into clear resin could pose any problems that drilling into 'solid' resin wouldn't. Is it worth the risk? 'pperciate it.




Last edited by Puck It; July 15th, 2017 at 07:03:46 PM.. Reason: easier to find
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Old October 12th, 2016, 06:40:08 PM   #2
Mister H
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I would say that if you go the drilling route, get the most narrow bit you can find and drill with your fingers (spinning it between the index and thumb) It sounds weird but I've done it before, any power tool would worry me too much.
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Old October 12th, 2016, 07:58:18 PM   #3
TrueFaith
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It doesn't look to me like there was a peg on the hand, simply an extended "tab" of clear resin that fit into the recess at the end of the arm.
Installing a peg would not only be difficult, but unnecessary.
A dab of Zap-A-Gap (super glue) should hold the hand just fine.
It's possible it could snap off again at some point if it's impacted, but the break line would be the same and easily re-repaired. As long as you take care not to bump it again you shouldn't have any worries.
I have a Kubert Hawkman statue that had both hands break off in shipping that I repaired (invisibly) with Zap-A-Gap. It's been just fine for over 5 years now.
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Old October 12th, 2016, 11:10:43 PM   #4
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Thanks for the input, guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister H View Post
I would say that if you go the drilling route, get the most narrow bit you can find and drill with your fingers (spinning it between the index and thumb) It sounds weird but I've done it before, any power tool would worry me too much.
Yeah, that's part of what worries me...it's a very small area to work with. I'll have to be careful if I decide to do this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueFaith View Post
It doesn't look to me like there was a peg on the hand, simply an extended "tab" of clear resin that fit into the recess at the end of the arm.
Installing a peg would not only be difficult, but unnecessary.
A dab of Zap-A-Gap (super glue) should hold the hand just fine.
It's possible it could snap off again at some point if it's impacted, but the break line would be the same and easily re-repaired. As long as you take care not to bump it again you shouldn't have any worries.
I have a Kubert Hawkman statue that had both hands break off in shipping that I repaired (invisibly) with Zap-A-Gap. It's been just fine for over 5 years now.
'Peg' might've been the wrong word. Yeah, it looks to be an extended portion of the hand. Zap-A-Gap and two part epoxy seem to be the go to from what I've read. My only issue with simply gluing it is the lack of reinforcement, like you mentioned. Mostly for shipping if I ever decide to sell it. The two that I've gotten have snapped at this spot during shipment...one apparently previously repaired at the spot. I imagine I could rig something up if I ever sell it... Hmmm...I'll have to think about this one.
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Old October 13th, 2016, 06:53:26 AM   #5
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Well, if you DO decide to peg it, I wouldn't use any kind of power tool.
Go to a well-stocked hobby store and get yourself a pin vise.
It's a small manual tool that modelers use to drill holes. It works well on resin and you'll have much more control.
A pin vise with an assortment of small bits is fairly inexpensive.

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Old October 13th, 2016, 08:06:52 PM   #6
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Alright, cool. I'm leaning towards just gluing it at the moment, but I'll definitely look into that if I decide to go that route. Thanks for the info.
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Old October 14th, 2016, 11:56:00 PM   #7
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Just a drop of super glue is all that you need. there seems to be a little bit of the post left to line things up. This isn't an area that you would be handling it by anyway. So I wouldn't put a rod.


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Old October 15th, 2016, 10:16:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C. Bormann View Post
Just a drop of super glue is all that you need. there seems to be a little bit of the post left to line things up. This isn't an area that you would be handling it by anyway. So I wouldn't put a rod.
Yeah, I decided to glue it...picked up some loctite epoxy. Should hopefully do the job. Appreciate the advice, guys.
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Old October 30th, 2016, 03:46:41 AM   #9
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I wonder if this is a common thing. Just purchased the same statue and it arrived broken in the exact spot.
Thanks for posting this question.
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Old October 30th, 2016, 11:14:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HedgeHog View Post
I wonder if this is a common thing. Just purchased the same statue and it arrived broken in the exact spot.
Thanks for posting this question.
While perhaps not exactly "common", it's probably the "most common" damage one sees to this particular statue in shipping.
With the reduced diameter of the resin "stud" that goes into the arm hole and the "collar" of the arm hole increasing any leverage that's put on that spot between the stud and where it flares into the larger-diameter hand, it' would be very prone to breakage at that spot with any kind of side force to the hand applied.
It really should have been designed with the hand shipped separate and attached by the buyer, but their really isn't enough room to install a magnet in the stud and without one the hand would probably keep falling out, so a glued stud was probably the only option for BD.
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Old October 30th, 2016, 10:09:41 PM   #11
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Sorry to hear that HedgeHog. Yeah, it's prone to breakage if packed without support...for the reason TF posted. The original packaging had it wrapped up and supported for this very reason, I'm sure. It really should be a separate piece.

As far as an update goes...I did glue it, but noticed a bit of a gap (didn't set it quite right) and decided to rebreak it. I cleaned off the glue and am now going to try my hand at pinning it. Should be fun.
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Old March 9th, 2017, 03:35:27 AM   #12
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Default Bowen Super Skrull repair

Tools
Pin vise (two bits)
Brass rod (1/2-9/16 of an inch long)
Sandpaper (if needed to sand down) or something to add texture to the surface
Two-Part Epoxy (Loctite instant mix 5 minute setting time)

Quick Rundown
-Sand each end to fix fit/gap or simply add texture to the surface
-Cut a piece of rod about 1/2-9/16 of an inch
-Mark rod with felt tip pen at halfway point
-Drill down part of the way with the smaller bit for the pilot hole (hand and arm)
-Drill down rest of the way (1/4 inch or so) with the larger bit for the final hole, periodically measuring with the rod (hand and arm) *larger bit should be slightly larger than rod to allow for some wiggle room
-Once rod sits in the hole at the halfway mark, get ready for two-part epoxy
-Apply epoxy to half of rod and insert epoxied half into arm
-Put hand portion over the rod and line up/position with arm
-Pull hand off and let epoxy dry
-Apply epoxy to surfaces surrounding both holes and half of rod that will insert into hand
-Put hand portion back on rod and line up/position with arm
-Find something to hold it in place while it dries (rubber band, piece of packing peanut for example) (takes 24 hours or so)
-Enjoy!

Long overdue update on this. So, I did go the pin route. I kept thinking I should take pictures for visual reference, but... Anyway, I used the pin vise and technique that TF and H suggested. For the pin/rod...I'll call it a rod...I cut a section about 1/2-9/16 of an inch long off of a thin brass rod (since brass doesn't rust) (not sure on the diameter). I say 1/2-9/16 because I believe the one I used was slightly shorter than the one I have on hand which is 9/16.

Before I did any drilling or epoxying I had to sand each end to 1. give it some texture for the glue to 'grab' onto and 2. fix the fit to make sure there wasn't a significant gap. (I only sanded the arm portion for texture. I sanded down the hand portion since the break occurred inside the arm, leaving material to work with.) Going in I thought if it's a clean break (no missing pieces) then the glove should fit flush against the arm...not the case in this instance. You can use thick or fine grain...thick allowing you to shave down quickly and fine allowing you to work on it without worrying about shaving too much. I used both. Remember to periodically test the fit. You don't want to spend all that time sanding just to realize you've sanded too much and now the ends don't meet. It's a little tedious, but worth it imo.

When it was time to drill, I marked the rod with a pen at the half-way point and used it to measure how deep I was drilling. First off, when it came to drilling, I used two drill bits. One (smaller bit) for the 'pilot hole' and one (larger bit) for the final hole. The pilot hole simply serves as a guide and makes it easier for the larger bit to drill down since there's less material to drill through. The smaller bit may be more forgiving, but it's important to make sure you drill at the appropriate angle. You don't want to get going and realize you're about to start drilling through the side of the arm or leave the rod at an odd angle.

So, after marking the rod I then took the smaller drill bit and hand drilled down about half the length of what would be the final hole. Once that was done, I took the larger bit and drilled down about a quarter inch into the arm (half the length of the rod) and a quarter inch into the hand, periodically inserting the rod into whichever hole I was drilling (there's many ) to check the depth. Once it reached the half-way mark on the rod, I was good. I don't remember the size of the larger bit I used, but it was slightly larger than the rod to allow just a little wiggle room. Also, just a note, after every few turns with the drill I would take it out and blow/pick out the excess resin as to not pack it into the hole when I inserted the rod.

With the drilling out of the way, I covered the half of the rod I was going to stick in the arm with two part epoxy (Loctite instant mix 5 minute setting time). I inserted it into the arm, then fit the hand over the other half of the rod and lined it up to make sure I had the positioning and fit correct. I then removed the hand, keeping the rod in the arm, and let the epoxy dry.

Now, with the rod firmly in place, I applied epoxy to the area surrounding each hole and to the half of the rod that would go into the hand. I then fit the hand piece over the rod and positioned it to make sure I had the fit right. Once I had done this it was time to find a way to hold it together while the epoxy dried. This can take somewhere around 24 hours for the strongest hold.

Pretty simple solution is a rubber band (not too big, not too small) wrapped around the fingers or flame and the curve of the arm...what would probably be considered the elbow area. When I did this I noticed the arm would tilt towards the shoulder, creating a gap at the break. An easy remedy, naturally, is to fill the empty space between the hand and the shoulder. Something small and soft like a little piece of a packing peanut works well (you might have to flatten it a little). You don't want something so big that it pushes the hand outward...then you have the same problem on the other side. So, just something big enough to fit the gap and malleable enough to not risk the paint. After a day or two it should have a nice hold.

It might take a go or two...the first time I did this I didn't feel I had it as flush as it could've been. It didn't feel like a strong fit and there was a little more gap than I liked. So, I re-broke, sanded/removed the glue and re-fit it. Now it's a strong fix...very solid. Not a whole lot of gap, either.

Anyway...not as quick a fix as simply gluing it, but I think the added support and peace of mind that comes with it is worth it. Hopefully this helps if anyone else ever runs across this problem. Some pics below...
















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Old March 9th, 2017, 07:14:32 AM   #13
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Thanks for the detailed update.
That will probably be the strongest joint on any of your Bowen statues for eternity now.
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Old March 9th, 2017, 02:56:51 PM   #14
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That come out great. I am always so scared to do any modifications to my statues unless it is beyond fixing correctly. Thumbs up Puck!!

Photobucket lately has been getting worse and worse. Does anyone else use a photo sharing site that they would recommend?
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Old March 9th, 2017, 05:28:10 PM   #15
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Yeah, hopefully it's straight forward enough to help. lol Yeah, I could probably strap some TNT to it and that joint would be the only thing left standing.

...Not many things frustrated me like Photobucket, but they have it now where you can select multiple pictures and copy the links at once. Saves a LOT of time. I've seen others use Tinypic and one or two others, but never really looked into it.
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Old March 11th, 2017, 08:09:03 PM   #16
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Great repair, Puck It. You are braver than me. I had a friend with some repair experience glue mine back together, but we did not use a pin. If the arm falls off again, I will definitely follow your instructions.
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Old March 11th, 2017, 10:46:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HedgeHog View Post
Great repair, Puck It. You are braver than me. I had a friend with some repair experience glue mine back together, but we did not use a pin. If the arm falls off again, I will definitely follow your instructions.
Thanks! I got it for a really good deal, so I wasn't out a whole lot if I messed up. That helped with the nerves. Sounds good...hopefully it won't come to that, though.
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